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By Susan Puckett


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This we will be certain of: whilst a cafe within the western international is known for its cooking, it's the tricolor flag that hangs above the range, opined one French journal, and this is often certainly not an remoted instance of such crowing. certainly, either linguistically and conceptually, the eating place itself is a French construction.


The hot wave of food represented via the bistronomy flow is led by way of younger cooks who create phenomenally smart nutrients with out the pomp and situation of top of the range eating places. this can be haute food for the folk — served in convivial surrounds, the place nutrition and group, instead of the thread count number of the tablecloth, are what concerns.

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Sertich's parents had left their own home and family in the mountains of northern Italy for a flimsy wooden company house in a coal camp on a barren Iowa prairie. The boxlike structures, lined up uniformly like rows of corn, were painted gray or brickred. They were small, run-down, and poorly constructed, with leaky roofs, loose window sills, and warped doors. In the winter the pumps froze, and in the summer the wells often dried up. Steam water frequently had to be brought up from the mines for washing clothes.

Sertich remembered. "My father was the butcher in the community; he slaughtered mostly pork and chicken and a little beef. My mother always saved the feet of the chickens and made a delicious broth with them. " The women made salami, blood sausage, and head cheese, which could be kept for extended periods of time. Once a year the men made wine with the grapes from their vineyards. Breakfasts were simple. "Lots of times we'd just have big bowls of coffee and milk with crackers and cheese," Mrs. Sertich said.

Typical of this era, when fluorescent Jell-O desserts were at the height of chicdom, was this candy recipe from Doris's files. Page 18 Sea-Green Jelly Squares 1 cup applesauce 1 cup granulated sugar 1 3-ounce package lime-flavored Jell-O Granulated sugar for dipping In a medium saucepan, combine applesauce, sugar, and Jell-O and bring to a boil, boiling gently for 2 minutes. Pour into a well-buttered 8 x 4 x 3-inch loaf pan. Chill until set. Cut into pieces with a sharp knife dipped in hot water.

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